The Gift

A 221-page coffee table book covering the arc and evolution of the surfboard, from its origins in Hawaii to the modern world. Sourced and written by an iconic modern day master-shaper, The Gift is insightful and revealing as both an introduction to the history of the surfboard and as a deep-dive into its various forms, players, and trajectories. For those local Hermosans and Southbay locals, Marc spent the summer of 1970, surfing with local legend Mike Purpus here in Hermosa and local spots north and south.